Frequently Asked Questions

Natural Balance Hoof Care

(Many Questions Featured in Recent Interview with Universal Horsemanship founder Dennis Reis)

Q) Natural Balance is a frequently discussed topic in the horse world.  I hear comments like, “horse’s don’t have square feet”, “the Natural Balance® Shoe is a gimmick or a fad”, “if I need a squared toe shoe I’ll make one”, etc.  However, in my experiences and talking with you, there is a lot more to Natural Balance than just a shoe.  Can you address some of those common misconceptions and explain the difference between Natural Balance Hoof Care and Natural Balance® Shoes?

A) You are right; there is a lot of discussion about Natural Balance in both the farrier industry, and the horse industry as a whole.  I can address some of those issues you mentioned, for example, the idea that Natural Balance is about making feet square.  That is not now nor has ever been a goal of Natural Balance Hoof Care.  People sometimes refer to Natural Balance shoes as square, but actually the foot side of the shoe is quite round and not that different in shape from most conventional front pattern shoes.  The main design feature that differs from other shoes is the rolled toe that is seen as the gradual arc across the ground surface of the toe of the shoe.  Even that is not square across the front, it actually continues around the toe quarters so that the horse can easily fine tune the direction in which his foot naturally breaks over. 

            As far as Natural Balance being a fad, we have been in business for almost 10 years and have grown steadily.  I think it is common for new products especially to be called a fad or gimmick in their infancy.  Many of the common and accepted hoof care tools and products, especially for lameness treatment, were considered fads in their early years, but are now as common as televisions and microwaves, which were also considered fads.  It’s all part of being fairly new in the market place I think.  Actually, many of the tools and guidelines we use in Natural Balance are not new ideas.  Sound and important protocols for treatment or for looking at the foot are frequently revisited and improved upon each time they resurface.  I’m sure Natural Balance will continue to evolve and change as new information becomes available.

            There are many good blacksmiths that do a nice job of making rolled-toe shoes that mimic the look of the Natural Balance shoes.  The Natural Balance shoe itself is a consistent, well made, manufactured product with many features and safeguards built into it.  They have been designed to go hand-in-hand with Natural Balance principles as a tool to get the job done more easily and consistently.  I personally use them because it saves wear and tear on my body by not having to forge each shoe as much and it allows me more time to spend getting the foot prepared properly, which is the key to any successful shoeing job.  Each farrier has to make those choices on what shoes and other supplies they use.  We’ve tried to develop products that help make the farrier and the horse more comfortable and successful.  The information behind the products has always been my primary focus because I believe they have some contribution to the hoof care industry.

This leads me to establishing a clarification between Natural Balance Hoof Care and Natural Balance® Shoes.  Natural Balance principles and guidelines for hoof care are tools that farriers can use on a daily basis that are complimentary to good, conventional trimming and shoeing practices.  Natural Balance guidelines can aid farriers in evaluating and treating various types of feet, healthy and pathologic.  The latest scientific and practical information that has evolved over the last 15 years, as well as sound practices revisited from the past, serve as the basis for the Natural Balance hoof trimming and shoeing guidelines.  Although studies of feral horse hoof patterns and anatomy were the original catalyst in the development of Natural Balance, continual research and studies are ongoing with emphasis on where the domestic horse fits in with the feral horse information, and visa versa.  It has become clear that the principles of Natural Balance offer information that will simplify many issues that pertain to lateral/medial hoof balance, anterior/posterior hoof balance, as well as establishing a reliable formula for detecting and treating hoof deformities and distortions before they affect the performance and soundness of horses.  Natural Balance Shoes are tools to help get this done in the most effective manner.  Although many farriers have used the shoes with success and not really followed the Natural Balance guidelines, we do find that successful implementation of the guidelines for evaluating and preparing the foot yields the best results, especially when a properly designed shoe is used in conjunction with the principles.  Using the shoe alone without regard for the corresponding guidelines may yield mixed results and have proven to be the primary factor why a shoeing procedure using Natural Balance shoes has been deemed unsuccessful.  Basically, following the directions is always a good choice with any product.

Q) Why should I consider Natural Balance for my horse? He is not a feral horse, he lives in a barn, not in the wild, and he has to carry my weight and perform..

A) Well, perhaps your horse may not even need Natural Balance. If he lands slightly heel first, does not stumble or forge, if his feet map out to the ratios I discussed, which indicate he has no hoof distortion, and he is free of heel pain or other minor problems then he is probably already being shod to adequately meet his needs. 

But on the other hand, if he routinely stumbles, forges, has back problems, lands toe first, or his feet have subtle distortion such as flares or under run heels, then he probably could benefit from Natural Balance principles.

Take for example Dennis Reis’s own horses. He believed they were doing fine. Then after they were done according to natural balance principles, he realized that they had been previously held back from reaching their full potential of comfort and performance.

Natural Balance is not intended to make a feral hoof out of a domestic one. That would be impossible in a domestic environment. The goal of Natural Balance is to supply the biomechanical needs of the domestic hoof in as optimal a manner as possible in a domestic environment, using information gathered from wild horse research. Moreover, ongoing scientific research is uncovering how and why these parameters fit into the domestic hoof. 

Q) I have heard many huge success stories with Natural Balance but at the same time heard of less than success, and even failures. Does that mean that Natural Balance is not right for every horse?

A) Well first, let’s look at all farriery as we have known it in the past.  Most horses do quite well for their entire lives in whatever type of shoe they wear.  However, many others eventually develop various kinds of lameness. Stumbling, forging, Navicular syndrome, coffin joint pain, ringbone, and tendon & ligament issues are common.  So what common factors keep horses sound and some not? It boils down to good basic farrier practices.  Some of the common factors in keeping horses sound are maintaining heels that do not distort or run under.  Keeping toes from running forward or flaring, along with allowing the foot to break over where it would wear naturally, and allowing the frog to function as it was designed.  Balancing the hoof capsule or shoe around the coffin bone, and preserving strong functional hoof structures are necessary as well.  All those things help maintain a healthy, strong hoof.  The best traditional farriery addresses those things.  Natural Balance is a simple way of addressing those issues and also provides the farrier with good parameters to get this done, and at the same time it individualizes each foot.

Q) What do you mean by individualizing each foot?

A) This is one difference between traditional farriery and Natural Balance. Traditionally, farriers are taught to apply similar parameters such as hoof angle and toe length to try to make pairs of feet match, even if the horse came naturally supplied with a mismatched pair.  With the newer science it is becoming very clear that doing so may end up compromising the health of both feet.  Natural Balance parameters supply the farrier with guidelines to maintain each hoof as an individual.  The results have shown that by doing so, both feet benefit, as does the whole horse.  Engaging the ground with unequal footfalls in the attempt to make both feet appear the same has negative effects on the whole horse.  Just try walking with one foot landing on the toe and the other slamming down flat.  See how that affects your entire body.  One goal of natural balance is to allow both feet in the pair to land equally heel first, even though they are not necessarily built the same or look the same.

Q) Explain why it is important for the feet to land slightly heel first.

A) Landing slightly heel first assures several things. The frog helps in coffin joint alignment, or pastern -hoof alignment. It is important for facilitating shock absorption through the back of the foot, digital cushion and lateral cartilages, rather than letting the coffin joint take a jamming. The frog helps in circulation, and a heel first landing insures the horse is reaching his fullest length of stride.

Q) I can understand why Natural Balance would be helpful, but I don’t want my horse’s toes chopped off.

A) Well, I agree. A horse’s toes should never be over trimmed, either in the sole or from the front. Doing either only weakens the entire foot and can make the horse sore. Also if the sole callus or the dorsal hoof wall is weakened repeatedly, it actually creates the forward stretching in the toe and can cause the toe flares to keep occurring.  The recommended procedure for applying Natural Balance leaves the hoof functional and strong and does not dub or overly dress the front of the hoof wall. Only the flares in the lower half or third of the hoof wall are dressed, and the sole callus is to be left strong and intact.  Any bit of hoof which may overhang the front of the shoe is simply rolled a bit.

Q) What exactly is the “sole callus” and why is it important?

A)  The “sole callus” is a specialized area of sole which grows around the front edge of the coffin bone. The horn tubules of the hoof wall and sole each grow from individual microscopic structures called papillae. The papillae which are situated around the tip of the coffin bone are much longer than those on the bottom which create the rest of the sole. That makes the horn tubules around the tip also longer than the rest of the sole. Longer horn tubules in that area create the raised area you can see and feel in the sole.

We have studies which illustrate the importance of this callus in supporting the bone upward in the capsule. As well, it is the only thing protecting the circumflex artery which is located between the bone and ground. Continually paring into this structure places the bone and the artery at risk of trauma.

Q) Many farriers say that the frog should not be on the ground because the foot has to flex outward at the bottom and to do that the sole has to flatten when he bears weight. They say this is necessary for circulation and shock absorption. So why would I want to leave all that frog there? Wouldn’t having the frog on the ground prevent this?

A) Well, think about this. If the frog was not supposed to be on the ground, why does it always do so in bare feet, and why is the foot designed to fill up with dirt when it gets long? Doesn’t the packed dirt support the frog even when the hoof wall has grown longer than the sole? The old theory about the foot flattening and flexing outward at the bottom is based on incomplete information about what the foot needs and how it functions when left to its own maintenance. Although horses have managed to survive the practice of removing frog for years we need to remember that horses manage to replace the frog support rapidly. The frog always rapidly grows back when pared away and in shod horses the foot fills with packed dirt almost immediately when it is on the ground. That self-replacement of the support is possibly why we thought the practice of paring frog was working OK, because the horses manage it themselves despite our efforts to remove it. Unfortunately some shod horses have to live or work on hard surfaces where the frog cannot contact the ground. They suffer faster consequences and are more likely to develop side bone, ringbone, contracted heels and other lameness.

Q) Then you are saying the dirt is supposed to be left in the foot?

A) That is correct. There are newer studies that shoe how the dirt that fills alongside the frog area actually acts along with the frog and bars in supporting and helping the foot expand more at the top, in the heel bulbs and coronary band. This action absorbs shock and circulates blood more efficiently.  Keep in mind, that urine and manure soaked shavings doesn’t necessary provide the best environment, so it is best for the compaction of material be good “clean” dirt.  If you get a good compaction of dirt in and around the frog, it will also help keep unwanted bacteria from getting in there.  Maintaining a “healthy” frog through consistent use will also help battle unwanted bacteria.

Q) Why do horses get contracted heels?

A) Several reasons. If they don’t land heel first, the heels can not expand properly.  If the heels have been left to grow too long, they prevent frog contact and expansion. If they run forward or under, they can’t expand outward at all but rather they are pushed inward at the ground with every step. Those shiny places you may see in the heels of some shoes is not usually from the heels moving outward, but inward. That inward curling doesn’t happen with the heels trimmed short, near the level of the live sole and if the frog is on the ground.

Q) How does Natural Balance assist with a heel first landing?

A) First, it assures the foot leaves the ground in optimal timing according to where the leg is. That allows the horse to reach his full length of stride, which allows a heel first landing. If the foot is delayed getting off the ground,  the horse’s body is too far forward by that moment and he has to automatically compensate and shorten the stride and may land toe first. Second, keeping the heels shorter and allowing frog support helps with proprioception. Proprioception is a neurological function that helps with movement. There are special receptors in the heel area above the frog that are part of that system. So if the frog can be contacting the ground it helps the horse reach forward and get the frog to the ground first. Also simply keeping the heels properly prepared and the breakover point in an optimal position helps avoid caudal foot pain or heel pain from distortion or stress in the coffin joint area. If the horse is not pain free in the rear of his foot, he will be more likely to land on the toe to protect the sore heels, which leads to other pathologies down the road.

Product Information

Q: What is the Equine Digit Support System and what is it used for?

A:  The Equine Digit Support System (EDSS) is therapeutic horseshoeing system that is used for treating lower limb pathologies such as: laminitis, founder, Navicular Syndrome, Ringbone, and underrun and contracted heels.   It is comprised of a pair of shoes, pads, impression material and attachment parts that can be used for adjusting the comfort of the system without removing the shoe and pad.

Q:  What is Impression Material and how is it used?

A:  Impression Material is a 2-part elastimer material that when mixed together, will cure to a rubber-like consistency.  There are two types (each for it's own purpose),  however we prefer the softer, less rigid consistency (EDSS Regular Impression Material).  Before the mixture sets up, it is pressed into the bottom of the horse's foot with a hard plastic pad taped over it.  When the horse puts pressure on the foot, the impression material is spread throughout the entire sole surface of the foot, and especially into the frog commissures.  When the hard plastic pad (Impression Pad) is removed after the material sets up, a more flexible pad (preferable one with a molded, ground level frog insert) and shoe is applied.  When the horse walks or runs, contact between the ground and the frog insert distributes support evenly throughout the entire sole surface of the foot.  Support is transferred to the frog, the digital cushion and lateral cartilage within the foot.   This will allow the Natural Biomechanics of support and circulation to occur.

Q:  Can I use the molded Impression Material a second time in the foot when the horse is reset?

A:  NO!  New Impression Material must be used for each shoeing.  The foot changes with each reset and therefor, to place the molded material back into the changed foot would feel very much like having your sock balled up inside your shoe. "Very Uncomfortable!"

Q:  What sizes do EDSS and Natural Balance® Shoes come in?

A:  EDSS shoes currently come in 6 sizes; Small ('00'), '0', Medium ('1'), '2', Large ('3'), and '4'.  The Natural Balance® Shoes (NBS) are available in 6 sizes ('00' through '4') of Aluminum, 7 sizes ('00' through '5') of Steel, 5 sizes ('4x0' through '1') in Steel Lite Sport, and various possible sizes ('000' through '3.5') in the Plastic PolySteel NBS.  Check out the products page for more information on these products.

Q:  Are the EDSS Shoes and Natural Balance® Shoes for the front feet only?

A:  The EDSS and Natural Balance® Shoes are designed specifically for the front feet.  The hind feet tend to be a little narrower at the toe due to the different demands placed upon them and the differences in the shapes of their coffin bones, therefore a slightly different pattern of shoe is needed.  The Elite Hind Shoes are the prefered shoes when steel is needed or desired.  World Race Plate (fronts), and the Thoro'Bred Sidewinders work well on the hind feet if you are wanting to use aluminum.

Q:  Can different size EDSS shoes be used with different size EDSS parts?

A:  Some of the EDSS parts are somewhat interchangeable throughout sizes.  If necessary, you could use a small or large EDSS Pad with medium EDSS Shoes, or a medium EDSS pad with the small or large EDSS Shoes, however it may not work to its optimal potential, so when possible, it is best to use the corresponding pads with the indicated shoe size.  The Wedge Rails are all the same size (but different heights) and fit all sizes of shoes.  The Frog Inserts can be interchanged similarly to those of the shoes and pads, however, the small (white) Frog Inserts don't work very well on medium or large EDSS Pads.  As you can see, you can somewhat interchange parts from size classes next to each other, but probably not if you are skipping sizes (e.g. small to large).

Q:  Can Wedge Rails be purchased in sets of the shortest rails only?

A:  Unfortunately they can only be purchased as a whole set (4 short, 4 mid and 4 tall) at this time.  We hope that in the future we will be able to offer them in mixed sets, but until that time we will have to get by with sets of all 3 heights.  The tall rails can be made into shorter rails with some modifications.  Please review the Natural Hoof Prints article, "Too Many Rails?".

Q:  Can I use the white beaded Styrofoam for treating acute lameness?

A:  NO!  The white beaded Styrofoam is not dense enough for this purpose and will end up being more trouble than it's worth.   The best Styrofoam is a very dense construction grade Styrofoam.  Please see the EDSS Styrofoam Pads for the best functional Styrofoam.

General Hoofcare

Q:  What is the "sole plane", and how do I find it?

A:  The "sole plane" is described as: The exfoliated, raised area of the sole, near the outer perimeter of the sole, just inside the lamina.  The sole plane can be found by removing only that part of the sole that flakes away easily.  The live sole (sole plane) will be visible when the sole surface changes to a waxy textured surface.

Q:  Should I clean the dirt and debris out of my horses foot?

A:  Findings are indicating that that material packed in the bottom of the horse's foot (especially that material lodge deep in the frog commissures) is quite beneficial to supporting the frog, bars and sole of the foot. (Support and stimulus to this area promotes the use of the Digital Cushion/Lateral Cartilage system within the framework of the foot.)

Q:  Do I prepare the foot exactly the same whether I'm putting on a shoe or leaving my horse barefoot?

A:  There are a few differences when applying shoes, as opposed to trimming for leaving barefoot.  First of all, you will not need to roll the toe of the hoof when you are applying a shoe.  The shoe should have a rolled toe so that you can place the breakover at the most beneficial location (like where you would roll the toe of the hoof for breakover when leaving barefoot).  Also, when applying a shoe, it is not necessary to trim the arch in the quarters between the toe and heel contact points.  The wall should be prepared at about an equal depth (from the sole plane - approx. 1/8") all the way around, to allow for nailing of the shoe.   The book "New Hope for Soundness" covers this topic as well (with illustrations).

Q:  Do I prepare the hind feet in the same manner as I do the front?

A:  The hoof preparation for the hind feet is very similar to that of the front.  The main difference is that the breakover will be approximately 1/8" to 1/4" closer to the tip of the frog than the breakover of the front feet of the same horse.  (e.g. if breakover on the front is 1 1/4" then the back will be about 1 1/8")  Please view the Natural Hoof Prints article "What about the hind feet?" for more information on this topic.

Q: Do all horses need shoes or can I leave me horse barefooted?

A: In our opinion, the whole idea of using a horse barefooted needs to be approached with caution and extreme common sense. Our preference is to see a horse barefoot as they were intended, over being shod. However, many factors are involved in successfully riding your horse barefooted over a variety of terrains and participating in a variety of disciplines. The key thing to remember with issues of being barefoot is that the hoof will adapt and modify to its needs. It does however need some time to adjust from one environment to another, or from one routine of stimulation to another (riding or exercising). For instance, horses that are kept in an irrigated pasture day after day and ridden only once or twice a week in a soft arena could probably do well barefooted. On the other hand, that same horse kept in the irrigate pasture and ridden once or twice a week over gravel roads or trails would not do as well barefooted. Now if that horse was ridden everyday extensively on the gravel roads and trails, he may then do rather well (if the hoof quality is good to begin with). Stabled horses have the most to gain from being barefooted, as the bare foot next to the ground is the best means to maintain a natural function and circulation. On that same note, the lack of movement from being in a stall for 20 hours per day would not provide the foot with adequate stimulation to adapt to being ridden on abrasive surfaces (like trails & gravel roads). Horses that live in stalls with good quality feet can and should be encouraged to be ridden in soft arenas as much as possible. Again, the hoof quality can be the limiting factor. I’ve seen many feet that are very flat and considered poor quality improve quickly to the point of being useful barefooted, while others however, struggle with being comfortable when leading them across abrasive gravel areas. To summarize, basically if a horse can get enough exercise and not have their environment varied an unreasonable amount, they have a good chance of being used barefooted (keeping in mind that hoof quality can be the determining factor).

As always, please remember to use common sense and be aware of the variety of variables that you may be confronted with. Listen to your horse!

Lameness Hoofcare

Q:  What do I do if my horse goes lame?

A:  The best thing you can do to render first aid to a lame horse is to tape Styrofoam to his feet.  The dense Styrofoam pads will help to stabilize the horse and in many cases turn the invasion of the disease into a treatable case.  You can find more on this procedure in "New Hope for Soundness". and in our Downloads section of our website: http://www.hopeforsoundness.com/techsupport/downloads/formlist.htm

Q:  How do pain medications affect the treatment process of lameness?

A:  This is generally best prescribed by your veterinarian, however, our findings indicate that pain medications often will distort or alter the pain response of the horse that is necessary for treating the disease effectively.  Basically it can cover up or mask some very important responses that are needed to figure out what is really going on inside the foot.  We try to restrict the use of pain meds to a minimum, but you should always discuss these options with your veterinarian first.

Q:  How long should I keep my horse on Styrofoam before putting on a more durable treatment system?

A:  There is no need to be in a hurry to get the horse off the Styrofoam pads.  As soon as the horse is so active that you can no longer keep the pads on his feet, then he is probably ready for a system that can better serve his activity level.

Q:  When using the Equine Digit Support System, how will I know when to change the Wedge Rails and Frog Inserts?

A:  The nice thing about the EDSS is that you can add to or remove the components whenever you want, or more importantly, when ever the horse wants.  Because the parts are made to be interchanged without removing the shoe and pad, you have the ability to adjust the different elevations to find the comfort zone of the horse.  Listen to them and you will know when the parts need to be changed.  A good rule of thumb for adjusting the rails has to do with how the horse lands.  If the horse lands slighly heel first, the rails are probably fine where they are, and the frog insert is usually best at about the same level, or just slightly higher.  If the horse lands toe first, then a taller rail may be indicated.  If the horse lands heavy heel first, then it is probably time to lower the rails until a slight heel-first landing is seen.  In most cases, the frog insert usually works best when at the same level or slightly higher than the rails, however every horse is different and you may have to play around with that to find their comfort level.  If you have questions during the treatment using the EDSS, please don't hesitate to contact us and we can help sort out any details: (719) 372-7463

(This page will be continually update, so please check back frequently!)

This page was last update on 6/10/04. Copyright © 1998 Wild Horse Publishing & Equine Digit Support System, Inc.. All rights reserved. Terms of Use